 |   Getting Started in R/C Racing |
So you're ready to start racing at an organized
event like RCCAR you say? Great! Now you just need to know what the rules are,
what to do, and when to do it!
Equipment: First off let's start
with what you should bring to the track. If you're running Electric you'll need
all your charging gear, chargers, power supply, batteries etc. There is power at
RCCAR and at all the permanent tracks although most of the temporary parking lot
tracks don't have power, so check ahead of time. Nitro races, you'll want to
bring your fuel, fuel bottle, and receiver battery charger or spare batteries.
And for both you'll want a chair, folding table to work on, and I recommend some
sort of canopy for some shade for both you and your pit table. The pits at RCCAR
are a first come-first serve basis. Just setup where you like, and if you get
there real early, make sure you leave room for timing and scoring, and the track
of course! Some other notes on equipment, if you are running electric, you
need to have at least two battery packs, and I would recommend having three good
battery packs for your qualifiers and main event, plus some practice packs.
2000's don't really like to be charged more than once-a-day, although 3000's can
be charged as often as three times if you cool them down before re-charging
them. If your are running Nitro, it's a good idea to have a buddy to help you
out in the pits, this way you have someone to fill up your car before the
qualifier, have someone to start you off in the main event, and if you have a
flame-out, you can get some help getting it started again.
Your
Car: For RCCAR, the rules are pretty simple, and as long as you follow
these guidelines you should be fine. Width: 190mm max for Electric,
200mm max for Nitro. These are the 'standard' widths so for both cars, so you
should be fine. And only HPI and Kyosho make it easy to switch between the two
widths. Wings: The rear wing should the one that which was included
with the body, and should not extend above the roof of the car. Body:
The body must be painted, and although sedan bodies are encouraged, any body may
be used. Tires/Wheels: Tires must be rubber (no foam tires). Altho any
rubber tire is legal, I'd recommend picking up a set of Yokomo Firm Sprints
(ZR-206F) with Yokomo Firm Foam Inserts (ZR-034F) on a 24mm rim. (1/8th scale
.15 Expert Gas and F1 foam tires are legal) Electric Motors: Basically
you have two classes of motors, Stock and Modified. A Stock motor is a 27turn,
24 deg motor. (Pink Can, 36 deg stock motors are not legal) A modified motor is
everything else, aka 13turn, 10 turn motors. I would recommend if this were
your first race, that you should run Sportsman Stock, and get your feet wet
there. Once you've got that down, then move up to either Sportsman Mod, or to
Expert Stock. Nitro Motors: In Sedan, you may run pretty much any .10
through .15 Nitro Motor.
Radio Gear: This is a very important
thing to remember. Make sure you have more than once Frequency Channel for your
Radio and Car. When you sign-up at the track, give them your primary channel and
any backups you might have. This helps to make sure there are no conflicts
between drivers in your heat or main.
Race Day: Plan on being
at the track by 8:00am at the latest if you want to take full advantage of open
practice. 7:00am if you want to help us setup the track. Get some practice packs
Charged! When the track opens for practice, and you're ready to go out and
practice, go to the back of the driver's stand, and look for your frequency on
the board. If it's not there, DON'T TURN ON YOUR RADIO until it is! You should
NEVER turn on your radio in the pits at any time, and during practice only when
you have the clip, and never during a qualifier or main if you are not running
in that heat. There may be someone else running the same frequency as
you. OK, now we've got a frequency clip, and you're ready to go practice.
Wait, what was that word again? PRACTICE. This is not a race. You are out there
to learn the track layout, and make sure your car works ok and has the proper
setup. If a faster car comes up on you, let him by, this isn't a race. In fact
the BEST thing you can do is to find someone to follow around the track so you
can work on the proper lines and braking points. Remember that the fast way
around the track is not to hit anything when you're just getting started. If
your car is working good, run out that battery and then bring it in (return your
frequency clip) and return to the pits and change batteries and go out again. If
you car is not working correct, aka spinning out, or pushing too much, bring it
in and make some changes. Don't bother running your battery out if the car isn't
working. Go make some changes. If you're not sure what to do, ask someone who
has the same car you have, or check out RCRacing.com's Article on Basic
Car Setup by August MacBeth. Now with practice over, and the heats
posted, it's time to go find out when you'll be up for your first qualifying
heat. Get your batteries charged (if running Electric) and plan on going up to
timing and scoring the race before yours and pick up your transponder. The
transponder should match your car number listed on the Heat Sheet. (You'll need
to drill a hole in your windshield for your transponder if you don't have a
dedicated transponder mount. The transponder must be between the front and rear
wheels and be mounted horizontally. The safest place is in the windshield.) Once
the heat that is currently running, is finished and have all turned off their
cars, you may turn your car on and put it on the track and take your place on
the drivers stand. Take a single lap to get warmed up and then stage your self
behind the start/finish bridge (make sure you stop in a safe spot if others are
still warming up). Next wait for your Car number or name to be called and run
your qualifier. Each person starts his or her own clock, so you don't need to
'race' with anyone at this point. Just try to get the best qualifier in that you
can. If someone faster comes up behind you, let him by, if your tangle with him,
it will only hurt both of your qualifiers. Remember to keep it between the
boards, and you'll have a good qualifier! When the buzzer sounds, continue
racing until your name or car number is called. Because everyone started on
their own clock, some people may finish before others, so when your name or
number is called, make sure you pull your car off in a safe area ASAP so you
don't interfere with someone else who may still be on the clock. OK, you're
pumped; you've got your first qualifier in! But wait! You're not done! Return
your transponder to timing and scoring and the go out and turn marshal for the
next race! Very important, you'll get docked a lap off your best qualifier if
you don't turn marshal. When you turn marshal, remember that other cars on the
track have the right away, but try and get to anyone who is stuck as quick as
possible and safe. All right, now get ready for the second round of
qualifying. This will start right after the last race of round one. Once
qualifying is over, the race officials will print out the mains. The mains are
based on your qualifying. The top ten qualifiers in each class will make up the
'A' Main, the next ten will be in the 'B' Main, and on down the line. So find
out where you will be starting, and note your NEW race number and possible NEW
CAR NUMBER. Your car number is NOT your starting position, so make sure you
check the sheet carefully. Make sure you grab the correct transponder for the
mains, as it may be different than what you had been using. Now the starts
for the mains will be different than they were during qualifying. This time you
will line up in Qualifying order, and everyone will go at the sound of the tone,
and NOW we're racing! This is a race, but if you happen to hit someone and spin
them out, do the right thing and wait for them to get going again before you
take off. It's the sportsman like thing to do. Hopefully you'll be the first to
the finish line after the tone sounds again and you'll be the winner of your
heat! In some cases during Nitro races there may be 'bump-ups' for the winner.
What this means if you win your 'C' or 'B' main, you can move up and run in the
next race, starting in the 10th spot. This is not done in electric since it
takes too long to change batteries, and is too much heat for an electric motor
to handle all at once. Right, you're day is over! Please lend a hand in
putting the track away, and pick up and trash around your pit, if you decide to
hang out, there is always a group of guys that go get some Pizza after the even,
everyone is welcome!
Remember if you have any questions at a race, please
don't hesitate to ask a race official, they'll be happy to
help! By: Dennis Racine
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