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 Posted: Jun-03-2009 12:20PM
Total posts: 668
Last post: Nov 20, 2018
Member since:Apr 14, 1999
4wheel mod and Slash for me this Saturday!

 Posted: Jun-03-2009 11:31AM
Total posts: 689
Last post: Aug 25, 2009
Member since:Feb 2, 2001
Thanks Kevin for clearifying the track/store operating hours. 

========================================

Ben Aromin   ~  

ORANGE DOG RACING  ~  Race Vehicles: Kyosho.  Powered by: LRP, Novak, Orion.  Transported by: '96 Chevy S10 °o°

"Thank you, Thank you very much"

========================================

Ben Aromin   ~  

ORANGE DOG RACING  ~  Race Vehicles: Kyosho.  Powered by: LRP, Novak, Orion.  Transported by: '96 Chevy S10 °o°

"Thank you, Thank you very much"

 Posted: Jun-03-2009 05:04AM
Total posts: 2643
Last post: Jul 9, 2020
Member since:
Track is open everyday for practice 11am-7pm weekends 8am-6pm.

 

norcal-hobbies.com / T.O.P Racing / Tekin USA / Jaco Tires / Spektrum  /  Lex Tyler Paints

 

http://tracks.amainhobbies.com/ Team Associated / Tekin USA / Protek/  Airtronics/Protoform/Top Notch Paints Mini Mod /

 Posted: Jun-03-2009 04:26AM
Total posts: 124
Last post: Nov 1, 2009
Member since:Feb 25, 2008
cant wait for the weekend guys! 4wd and slash for me! see ya all saturday!

-- michelangelo "mich" capraro

Image

-- michelangelo "mich" capraro

Image

 Posted: Jun-02-2009 05:13PM
Total posts: 745
Last post: Sep 28, 2014
Member since:Dec 25, 2007
Is the off-road track open for practice during the week or weekends when not being raced on?

 Posted: Jun-02-2009 02:22PM
Total posts: 2203
Last post: Oct 6, 2014
Member since:Mar 30, 2000
it would be really funny if everyone showed up at cap

TC3/Slash/T4

 

 

FT B5M

 TLR 22t

 BMillerRacing.com

 

 

 

 Posted: Jun-02-2009 09:32AM
 Edited:  Jun-01-2009 11:00PM
Total posts: 527
Last post: Aug 23, 2012
Member since:Feb 1, 2008

this weekend is gonna be awesome! missed last weekend, looking foward to some fun.

NOR CAL HOBBIES THE RACE PLACE!, NORCAL HOBBIES COMMUNITY, ELITE RC MOTOR MOUNTS, LEX TYLER PAINT$ (SAY DAT!), SKOTY CHOPS KUSTOMS,  WWW.SKOTYCHOPS.COM  ,RACING FOR CHRIST!

 

 

 

NOR CAL HOBBIES THE RACE PLACE!,RACING FOR CHRIST!

 

 

 Posted: Jun-02-2009 07:47AM
 Edited:  Jun-01-2009 11:00PM
Total posts: 10041
Last post: Nov 18, 2018
Member since:May 3, 1999

Here is the rest of it-

 

Continued........

Upper Shock Mounting Location


More Inclined Has a more progressive, smoother feel.
More lateral grip.
Less Inclined
(More Vertical) More direct feel;
Less lateral grip. (side-bite)
generally a bit better for jumps and harsh landings.

Front more inclined than rear Steering feels very smooth.
A little more mid-corner steering.
Mounting the rear shocks very upright can result in the rear end sliding in the middle of the turn, especially in high-speed turns.
Rear more inclined than front Feels agressive turning in.
The car has a lot of side traction in the rear, and the turn radius isn't very tight.

Roll Center / Camber links


Long Link A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns.
It feels as is the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further.
The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part.
Short Link A short link makes that the body doesn't roll as far, its tendency to roll drops off as it rolls.
This can stabilize a car in bumps and curved sections.
It feels as is the car generates a little less grip.
Parallel Link
(Parallel to lower arm) A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one.
It feels very smooth, and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
Angled Link
(Distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside) An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (level, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar.
It gives a little more initial grip, steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car.
The body rolls a little less than with parallel links.
On bumpy tracks, it could be possible to use softer settings for damping and spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilising the car.
Beware that you should always keep an eye on the balance of your car; large differences in roll center front vs. rear will make the car feel less consistent and less confidence-inspiring.

Longer Front The front rolls and dives more in turns.
Lots of steering in mid-corner.
Could make the car hook.
Shorter Front The front feels very stable.
A little more turn-in, but less steering in mid-corner.
Longer Rear More rear traction in turns, and coming out of them.
Rear end slide is very progressive, not unpredictable at all.
Make sure that there's enough rear camber though, or you could lose rear traction in turns.
Shorter Rear The rear feels very stable. It breaks out later and more suddenly, but if it does, the slide is more controllable.
It makes the front dive a little more, which results in more steering, especially when braking.
More Angled Front Turn-in is very agressive.
The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.
More Angled Rear The rear end is rock-solid while turning in. It feels very confident.



Camber

Camber is best set so the tires' contact patch is as big as possible at all times. So with a stiff suspension you'll need less camber than with a soft one.
If the tires wear evenly across their contact patches, camber is about right.
On really bumpy tracks, adding a little more negative camber (2 to 3 degrees) can help traction and reduce the chances of catching a rut and flipping over.

Toe

Front Toe-in Stabilizes the car in the straights, adn coming out of turns.
It smoothes out the steering response, making the car very easy to drive;
Front Toe-out Increases turn-in steering a lot.
But can make the car wandery on the straights;
Never use more than 2 degrees of front toe-out!
Rear Toe-in Stabilizes the car greatly. It makes the rear end 'stick', but more toe-in makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.
Rear Toe-out Rear toe-out is never used. It makes the rear of the car very, very unstable.



Anti-Roll bar

Anti-roll bars are best used on smooth, and high-traction tracks only.
If you must use one on a bumpy track, try to use a very thin one.
Adding an anti-roll bar, or stiffening it, reduces traction at that end of the car. So it feels like the opposite end has more grip.
If the track is smooth enough, it also makes the grip level feel more consistent.
Anti-roll bars reduce body roll in turns, so they make the car feel more direct, and make it change direction quicker.

Stiffer Front An anti-roll bar at the front of the car reduces low-speed steering. The turning radius will be larger, but very consistent.
It reduces 'hooking' by preventing front end roll.
The car will have more rear traction in turns.
Stiffer Rear Adding an anti-roll bar to the rear of the car gives more steering. the car steers tighter, also at low speeds.
On a very smooth track, it can make powersliding easier. It can also make powering out of turns and lining up for jumps a little easier.

Ackermann


More
(Bigger difference in steering angle
between the two font wheels) More Ackermann makes the steering more consistent, and smoother.
It just feels right, also at low speeds and in tight turns.
Less
(Smaller, or no difference in steering
angle between the two font wheels) Less Ackermann makes the steering more agressive at high speeds.
The car turns in more agressively.
It doesn't work well when either traction or cornering speeds are low
.

Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel


More
(less droop/downtravel) The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
Less
(more droop/downtravel) Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
The car also land better after jumps.
The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.


Pinion/Spur

Overall Ratio Overall Ratio = (Spur/Pinion)*Internal Gearbox Ratio
Rollout
(mm/rev) Rollout = (Pi*Tire Diameter)/Overall Ratio
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 Posted: Jun-02-2009 07:45AM
Total posts: 10041
Last post: Nov 18, 2018
Member since:May 3, 1999

Just want to post something I found which I thought may help those with their car setup and understanding the dynamics of offroad suspension-

 

Buggy Setup Guide

This is a 'Quick Reference' setup guide, a cheat sheet. You can print it down for your convenience.

This setup guide assumes you have some sort of 'standard setup' to begin with. One should come with your kit. You can also find standard setups on manufacturers' websites.
It also assumes your car is in perfect working order. (Bearings spinning freely, nothing dragging the ground, no binding in the suspension,...)

Tires

Tires are always the first element in setting up a car. If you've got the right tires, you're 90% there


Springs


Stiffer springs make the car feel more responsive, more direct.
They also help the car jump a little better and higher.
Stiff springs are suited for high-traction tracks, which aren't too bumpy.
Softer Softer springs are better for (mildly) bumpy tracks.
They can also make the car feel as if it has a little more traction in low-grip conditions.

Stiffer Front The car has less front traction, and less steering. It's harder to get the car to turn, the turn radius is bigger and the car has a lot less steering exiting corners.
The car will jump better, and maybe a little further.
On very high-grip tracks, it's usually beneficial to stiffen the front, even more than the rear. It just makes the car easier to drive, and faster.
Softer Front The car has more steering, especially in the middle part and the exit of the corner.
Front springs that are too soft can make the car hook and spin, and they can also make it react sluggishly.
Stiffer Rear The car has more steering, in the middle and exit of the turn. This is especially apparent in long, high-speed corners.
But rear traction is reduced.
Softer Rear The car has generally more rear traction, in turns as well as through bumps and while accellerating.

Damping


Heavier Thicker oil (heavier damping) makes the car more stable, and makes it handle more smoothly.
It also makes the car jump and land better.
If damping is too heavy, traction could be lost in bumpy sections.
Softer Soft damping (and springing) is better for shallow, ripply bumps.
It also makes the car react quicker.
Damping should always be adapted to the spring ratio; the suspension should never feel too 'springy' or too slow.
Heavier Front The turn radius is wider, but smoother. The car doesn't 'hook' suddenly.
The car is easier to drive, and high-speed steering feels very nice.
Softer Front The steering reacts quicker.
More and better low-speed steering.
Heavier Rear Steering feels quick and responsive, while the rear stays relatively stable.
Softer Rear Feels very easy to drive, the car can be 'thrown' into turns.
More rear traction while accellerating.
If one end of the car has slightly heavier damping than the other, then that end will feel as if it has the most consistent traction and the most stable when turning in and exiting corners.
A car with slightly heavier rear damping, or slightly lighter front damping will feel very stable turning into corners on bumps or whoops sections. It won't feel 'touchy' at all.



Caster

More More caster aids stability, and handling in bumpy sections.
Less Less caster increases steering drastically.
Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.

Ride Height


Higher The car feels better in bumps, and jumps better.
It can feel tippy, or even flip over in high-grip conditions.
Lower The car feels more direct, and it can potentially corner a bit faster.
It's also harder to flip the car over.
Lowering one end of the car, or putting the other end higher up, gives a little more grip at the lowest end, but try to avoid big differences in ride height between the front and the rear.



Wheelbase


Shorter A short wheelbase makes the car feel very nimble, and good in tight turns.
This is a good idea for very small and tight tracks, without big jumps or bumps.
Longer The car becomes a lot more stable, adn better in wide, high-speed turns.
This is good on wide-open tracks.

Anti-Squat


More More anti-squat generally makes the rear of the car more sensitive to throttle input.
The car has more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners.
On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accellerating out of corners.
A car with more anti-squat can also jump a little higher and further, and it will soak up bumps a little better, off-power.
A lot of anti-squat (4° or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accellerating.
Less Less anti-squat gives more rear traction while accellerating on a slippery or dusty track.
It also gives more side-bite.
Less anti-squat will make the car accellerate better and faster through bumpy sections.
Very little anti-squat (0° or 1° makes the rear end feel very stable. It also makes power sliding a lot easier.
Note that anti-squat only works when you're accellerating or braking, it does absolutely nothing when you're coasting through turns.
The harder you brake or accellerate, the bigger the effect of anti-squat is.


Shock Pistons


The assumption is made that if pistons are changed, the viscosity of the oil is also adapted, to give the same static feel. (Same low-speed damping)
Smaller Holes Smaller holes mean more 'pack'. Pack means the damping gets very stiff, or almost locks up, over sharp bumps, ruts, or landing off jumps.
Small holes are good for smooth tracks, with big jumps or crummy jumps with harsh landings.
Bigger Holes Bigger holes mean less pack. The point at which the damping gets stiff (where the shock 'packs up' occurs a lot later, at higher shock shaft speeds.
Big holes are very good for bumpy tracks. The car is more stable and has more traction in the bumpy sections. It won't be thrown up over sharp bumps, the suspension will soak them up a lot better.

Smaller holes in front The car jumps very nicely, a little more nose-up.
It feels easy to drive.
Bigger holes in front Can give a subtle feel of more steering and more consistent front end grip if the track isn't perfectly smooth.
Always use the same, or about the same shock pistons front and rear. Big differences in pistons make the car feel inconsistent, and not very smooth.

Lower Shock Mounting Location


Bear in mind that changing the lower shock mounting location changes the lever arm of the shocks on the wheels.
So mounting the shocks more inward makes the suspension softer at the wheel, and mounting the shocks more towards the outside makes the suspension stiffer.
Front more inward More low-speed steering.
Usually makes the car very hard to drive.
Front more outward Makes the car very stable, but it has a lot less low-speed steering.
Rear more inward Makes the car soak up bumps a little better, and can make the car corner a bit faster.
Can be good for bumpy, low-grip tracks, but general stability is greatly reduced.
Rear more outward Feels very stable.The way to go for high-grip tracks.
 

 
 Posted: Jun-02-2009 07:02AM
Total posts: 2643
Last post: Jul 9, 2020
Member since:
Im in for 1/8th and 4wd.

 

norcal-hobbies.com / T.O.P Racing / Tekin USA / Jaco Tires / Spektrum  /  Lex Tyler Paints

 

http://tracks.amainhobbies.com/ Team Associated / Tekin USA / Protek/  Airtronics/Protoform/Top Notch Paints Mini Mod /

 Posted: Jun-01-2009 09:00PM
Total posts: 107
Last post: Mar 31, 2013
Member since:Jan 5, 2009
I think I should be down for some 1/8 buggy action! First time out! I am just gonna say sorry now, I didnt mean to hack you (everyone)! And lets keep all kids and the slow moving adults away from the spectator areas when I am out there. I dont need to hurt anyone! LOL! Laughing

 

 

Never argue with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level, and beat you with experience!

 Posted: Jun-01-2009 08:49PM
Total posts: 10041
Last post: Nov 18, 2018
Member since:May 3, 1999
Hey Francis...I owe you a front arm.I will get her fixed up when Norcal gets the part in.Yes I found a new 4wd passing line.Unfortunately on the 3rd time doing it,the arm broke.
 

 
 Posted: Jun-01-2009 08:39PM
Total posts: 10041
Last post: Nov 18, 2018
Member since:May 3, 1999
Noone is!Your too fast.
 

 
 Posted: Jun-01-2009 08:29PM
Total posts: 527
Last post: Aug 23, 2012
Member since:Feb 1, 2008
who's ruuning 1/8 buggy this weekend? im looking foward to racing this weekend.

 

NOR CAL HOBBIES THE RACE PLACE!, NORCAL HOBBIES COMMUNITY, ELITE RC MOTOR MOUNTS, LEX TYLER PAINT$ (SAY DAT!), SKOTY CHOPS KUSTOMS,  WWW.SKOTYCHOPS.COM  ,RACING FOR CHRIST!

 

 

 

NOR CAL HOBBIES THE RACE PLACE!,RACING FOR CHRIST!

 

 

 Posted: May-31-2009 09:49PM
 Edited:  Jun-02-2009 11:00PM
Total posts: 689
Last post: Aug 25, 2009
Member since:Feb 2, 2001

Thanks Kevin for the GREAT Hospitality.  You and your crew have made us feel welcomed therefore would be proud to dub NorCal Hobbies/Raceway as ODR's 'Home Track'

 

 

========================================

Ben Aromin   ~  

ORANGE DOG RACING  ~  Race Vehicles: Kyosho.  Powered by: LRP, Novak, Orion.  Transported by: '96 Chevy S10 °o°

"Thank you, Thank you very much"

========================================

Ben Aromin   ~  

ORANGE DOG RACING  ~  Race Vehicles: Kyosho.  Powered by: LRP, Novak, Orion.  Transported by: '96 Chevy S10 °o°

"Thank you, Thank you very much"

 Posted: May-31-2009 06:22PM
Total posts: 2643
Last post: Jul 9, 2020
Member since:

Ben, Thanks for your guys help today. hope you had fun and liked the layout.

 

norcal-hobbies.com / T.O.P Racing / Tekin USA / Jaco Tires / Spektrum  /  Lex Tyler Paints

 

http://tracks.amainhobbies.com/ Team Associated / Tekin USA / Protek/  Airtronics/Protoform/Top Notch Paints Mini Mod /

 Posted: May-31-2009 11:11AM
Total posts: 464
Last post: Jun 17, 2013
Member since:
Hey John how's the B44? I heard you were inventing new lines. Will it be ready for practice this week? Thanks.

 Posted: May-30-2009 01:02AM
Total posts: 689
Last post: Aug 25, 2009
Member since:Feb 2, 2001
What are the hours for the track/shop open on Sunday?

========================================

Ben Aromin   ~  

ORANGE DOG RACING  ~  Race Vehicles: Kyosho.  Powered by: LRP, Novak, Orion.  Transported by: '96 Chevy S10 °o°

"Thank you, Thank you very much"

========================================

Ben Aromin   ~  

ORANGE DOG RACING  ~  Race Vehicles: Kyosho.  Powered by: LRP, Novak, Orion.  Transported by: '96 Chevy S10 °o°

"Thank you, Thank you very much"

 Posted: May-29-2009 08:08PM
Total posts: 10041
Last post: Nov 18, 2018
Member since:May 3, 1999
The real Reedy Race? lol,I think you mean the original Reedy Race.M n M was the place!
 

 
 Posted: May-29-2009 08:06PM
Total posts: 1764
Last post: Mar 21, 2016
Member since:Feb 27, 1999

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